Horizontal to Horizontal Seam

Generally horizontal to horizontal seams are used for things such as stitching shoulder seams together, or blocks of knitting for patch work blankets.  The rows of knitting run vertical and you are joining two bound off or cast on edges.

Let’s get started:


Here’s what you’ll need:

Two pieces of knitting with bound off edges to be joined. Already blocked.

Row markers, or knitters safety pins

Darning needle (this is a Chibi by Clover )

A length of yarn about 1.2 times as long as the seam you intend to make



Step One:  Line up your two blocked pieces of fabric. Using the row just below the bound off edge.  Mark your stiches an even number apart.  This will help you keep track of your stiches.  Its easier to undo a seam a short way, when you notice your markers don’t line up, than it is to get to the end and find you have more stiches one one side than the other.

In this example both the pink and the green fabric have 25 stitches each and the row markers are 6 stitches apart.


Step 2: Thread your darning needle with  your choice of yarn.  I’m using orange, so it’s easy to see for demonstration purposes.  Slide the needle from right to left under the first stitch of the top fabric, in the row directly under the cast off edge.

Pull the yarn through leaving enough of a tail to weave the end in later.

Repeat for the bottom piece where you see the blue arrow.

DSC_0160   DSC_0160-1

Step 3: Continue to slide the needle under each stitch, right to left, top then bottom. You will slide the needle through both the front and back of each loop or stitch (see small photo). You can see here how the orange thread loops from top to bottom to join the two pieces together.

Ensure that the markers line up as you come to them. You will come to a marker first on the top fabric. The stitch directly after that on the bottom fabric should also be one with a marker.  If it is not, you have missed a stich along the way.  Look back to find it, and pull your working thread out to the point where the mistake is, and rework.

Remove the row markers as you work past them.


Step 4: This should really be step 2.5.  You should pull your stitches snug every 2 or 3 stitches.  It is easier to maintain a good tension if you snug up your stiches often.  If you go to many in between pulling the working yarn taught, the most recent stiches you made will become very snug, while the ones further down the line will remain far looser.

To snug your stitches, and make the seaming thread virtually invisible, simply pull on the thread to the left, gently and slowly.  You will see your stitching thread start to disappear. Stop once you can no longer can see the thread, being careful not to over tighten maintaining the tension of your previous tightenings.

If you do over tighten, and the seam bunches,  stretch the seam horizontally to draw some more of the working yarn back into the seam.

The perfect seam is not bunchy, nor is it so loose that the seeming thread is visible. The seam should be sturdy with minimal stretch, the seamed row should be the same gauge as the project gauge, and the working yarn should become invisible from the right side.


Step 5:

Work your seam to the end, snugging up your stiches as you go. Once you have reached your final stitch cut the yarn leaving a tail long enough for weaving in.

In this photo you can see the seam as it looks from the wrong side of the fabric.

Weave in your ends and you are done!


A perfect horizontal to horizontal seam.

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